Fungicide & Pesticide

Fungicide & Pesticide That Really Does Works!!!

1A

My Fungus Experience (See 1A) For one kind of fungus I had problems with before Hydrogen Peroxide Fungicide!!! Also see page "How to Sterilize Potting Soil" for more tips on preventing Fungus.

       I have tried lots of online recipes and store bought Fungicides; with no success. I have found that most, if not all store bought brands hurt or killed my plants. Even, the homemade recipes I tried also hurt or did not help. It was a tossup either which way I went! On one hand, not trying anything; and my plant dies from a Fungus infection. Or Use traditional Fungicides and it kills or hurts my plants; and the fungus just grows back! After losing all my plants a few years back; I told myself I would not get anymore plants until I found both a fungicide and pesticide that worked. That is how I got the Hydrogen Peroxide Fungicide ratio below. Click this Link for another person's take on Hydrogen Peroxide as a Fungicide.

Hydrogen Peroxide Fungicide Info: I had read that Hydrogen Peroxide can be used as a Fungicide. But, I could not really find out how much to use. Online, everyone had a different recipe; which faired from one site to the next.  After some trial and air I came up with this...

1B

 

 

1 cap full Hydrogen Peroxide to 7oz water (see photo 1B)

 

        Remeber to label your spray bottle "Plant Fungicide." Spray 1 to 2 time a season.  Spray in the begining or end of each season (or spray at both time). Don't spray during winter; just pick back up the following Spring.

Note: If you have a 6oz spray bottle like me; I just don't fill the Hydrogen Peroxide cap all the way to the top; which compensates for have 1oz less water. A little less or a little extra Hydrogen Peroxide has not proven to be damaging so far to any of my plants. So, don't panic or stress about not measuring out everything perfectly. Gardening should be fun not stressful!

             Pesticide Information...

    

        If you have read my Home Page and have bought "Super Absorbent" to use as potting soil; follow Step A# below. If you are using another potting mix and want a easy to make pesticide; follow Step B# below. Both will make the same pesticide, you just have different steps to follow which causes the same outcome.

Step A#: Super Absorbent is Diatomaceous Earth? Its not just used for potting mix anymore!

1. Scoop up the total volume of Super Absorbent you want to end up with; and place it in a bowl. (see 1C) 
2. Have at least 1/2in to 1in of lukewarm water covering the Super Absorbent.
3. Use your finger or a spoon to stir the water and Super Absorbent together; this will turn the water whitish-gray in color. (See 1D)
4. Poor all the water into a clean cup; and repeat step 3# above one more time. (See 1D)
5. Poor the whitish-gray water into a spray bottle; and label bottle "Plant Pesticide." See 1E)
6. Last step is to use it; by spraying all your plants. This will sometimes leave white water spots on leafs which will fad over time. Spray in early morning to late evening to avoid sun damage.

            Please note: Follow Step A# even if you're not going to keep the whitish-gray water. This cleans all the fine dust out of the super Absorbent before using it as potting mix. For more information on using Diatomaceous Earth as potting mix (See Page:  "Diatomaceous Earth Test." )

1C

1E

1D

 Step B# Effective Pesticide at home "Diatomaceous Earth!!!"

1F

            Diatomaceous Earth comes in many different forms and products. In Step A# it is sold as Super Absorbent, which is used to clean up oil spills.  It also comes in a plan powder form; which is what we will be using in this Step. Note: I am not talking about the Diatomaceous Earth that is used for pool maintenance; that is toxic and not safe to use on plants.  Follow the steps below...

1. Buy a bag of Diatomaceous Earth (Powder Form) (see 1F)
2. Get a small 6 oz Spray Bottle (they seems to work better & longer)
3. Mix ½ Tablespoon Diatomaceous Earth in every 6oz water
4. Fill Spray bottle with mix and its ready to use. (see 1E) This will sometimes leave white water spots on leafs which will fad over time.
5. Spray in early morning to late evening to avoid sun damage.

For more ways to using Diatomaceous Earth See Pg "Diatomaceous Earth Test"

How to Use Cedar Mulch/Sawdust as Pest Prevention?

            Cedar really does work as pest Prevention; such as those pest-E old Gnats! I have personally tried this after reading E-how website. Since, my father has a woodshop; it was easy to find free Cedar sawdust. But, for those without access to a woodshop; Cedar Mulch is sold at local fed stores and/or curtain Department Stores. Follow the steps below to prevent Gnats and other pest from going up throw the bottom and top of your pots; where they thrive!

How to use Cedar Mulch/chips: (Amount of mulch to soil may vary depending on size of pot) When filling up a 5gal bucket/pot with drilled whole in bottom... 

1. Put about 1in to 2in of soil into the bottom
2. Then add a layer of Cedar Mulch on top of that
3. Next, fill the pot almost to the top with dirt; but stop about ½ to 1in below where you want the soil line to end.
4. Finally, add a nice layer of Cedar mulch to the top.

Note: There is a step you can take, which is a matter of personal opinion; it is to first add a layer of rock into the bottom of your pot. There has been some debate on this matter; but I will remain neutral on this subject.

How to use Cedar Sawdust: (amount of dirt to sawdust may vary depending on size of pot)   When you are filling up a 5gal bucket/pot with dirt (with drilled whole in bottom). 

1. Put about 1in to 2in of soil into the bottom
2. Then add a layer of Cedar sawdust on top of that
3. Next, fill the pot almost to the top with dirt; but stop about 1in to 2in below where you want the soil line to end.
4. Mix together a few handfuls of cedar sawdust into the spare soil.
5. Lastly, fill the pot/bucket the rest of the way up with the cedar & soil mix.

 (Note for the top soil layer: It is best to mix in the cedar sawdust into the soil to prevent the sawdust from drying out and blowing away.)